Lorenzo's Story
Most people living in the UK have to travel a bit to get to the surf. A bit of an irony when you consider that supposedly no part of the country is farther than 70 miles from the coast. (Yes all you Americans and Aussies, Britain is that tiny.) But there are hardcore surfers from all over Europe for whom it's even more of a mission. Lorenzo is one of those keen types: his local break is Hossegor. It's the closest break to where he lives in Germany.
Back in April Lorenzo came over to the UK for a visit. He was here for two weeks and scored big time, with great surf and weather every day. The day after he left, it went flat and started raining, and then stayed that way for another month, so he's probably got a slightly unrealistic view of the surf here. But he's obviously a surf magnet, so we're looking forward to him coming back.
Anyway, he wrote a little story about his trip here, which pretty much captures up the essence of any good surf trip.
" WHEN YOU ARE HEADING for a surftrip you always have certain expectations. Will it be the way you imagined it? As a surfer- it does not depend on where you are living- you always need this feeling of riding waves in order to satisfy the search for luck and freedom.
Surfing, that is entering another world and especially when you are not living at the ocean’s coast where you can see the lines everyday, you have to be keen and travel a lot to get this fulfilment a surfer is seeking for.
A year ago I met these guys Matt and Mike from North Devon. They are 2 surfers from the Croyde area which invited me showing their local breaks. So it happened about the easter time that I got to North Devon. And that is what I experienced when I was there. The luck was definitely with me. I experienced the Devonshire coastline with 2 weeks of nearly everyday sunshine.
Was I really in England, on the isle where there is this predominating cliche of rain, mist and clouds that claims from you tolerance and patience? I was definitely there and luckily I saw it from its best side.
Good weather- sometimes as hot as a summerday in France- good surf, a great countryside and most of all pretty nice people which were so friendly and with whom you could share your oceanemotions.
I got used to the local drinking habits- starting to drink the pints at noon was new for me- and it was always a nice familiar atmosphere sitting in a pub after the surfsessions and having a couple of beers. Sitting in the car, driving over green fields for surf while the sunset was starting, the car full of surfboards and then this music from Jason Mannings coming out the boxes. I thought myself being part in a video like Shelter. The whole atmosphere including the people, the weather and the place with its tranquillity really made this stretch of coastline to a soulsurfer destination.
Especially this place called Woolacombe I experienced as a surfers hangout for those who do not care a lot of time and what to do next. I enjoyed this place with great sunsetsurf and a dusk that seems to connect with all its perfection all the surfer’s souls. I had the respect for the waves you need to have when you are not familiar with and I also had all the fun you have when you are out in the water and when you just enjoy the ride.
In my eyes the act of surfing, does not depend on if you are longboarder, shortboarder or bodyboarder, should be kept going by those doing it because it creates a big community of people all sharing the same passion, the same attitude to the ocean and to life. Working hard just for money and high lifestyle is not the most important thing in life. The worst day at the beach is always better than a good day at work.
This kind of community feeling I felt on the devonshire coast where I felt integrated because of the same passion.
Mahalo for the great time "
By Lorenzo
